Vittorio Branchizio

Entirely designed and Made in Italy, the new Fall-Winter 2015-16 collection is inspired by geometrical shapes, in particular polyhedrons, and a reinterpretation of their influences across the ages. Starting from Archimedean solids, Luca Pacioli’s divine proportions and the epiphanies of Giovanni da Verona, up to Escher and Adriano Graziotti – the F/W 2015 collection reworks the subtle line between freedom and rules, with an outstanding result.

The geometrical shapes are brought to life on threads with different weights and precious fabrics such as silk, finished cashmere and double merino wool filled with eco hypoallergenic, ecological material.

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Photo credits: Adriano Russo

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Spring / Summer 2015 Collection Preview

Fashion newbie, Ivories, is at its second collection but the brand philosophy remains unchanged: “no season” garments that can live all year round. The brand’s evolution lies in items that have the power to catch the eye as well as win the title of maximum wearability and versatility.

Defined volumes soften and dress up the Ivories woman in fluid shapes, mixing knitwear with fabric and bias cuts to produce feminine silhouettes that are never excessive. Clean, elegant lines go hand in hand with silk and cotton for a casual attire inspired by the worlds of sportswear and denim.

A high injection of allure is given by top quality raw materials such as indigo linen as well as by knitted trim inserts, grosgrain ribbons and small precious details that marry silk items and luxury mercerised cotton jumpers. Upbeat jersey t-shirts enriched by the key themes of the collection recall American graphic art, whilst more references to contemporary art persist in the cotton jacquards creations.

With a strong street style influence, the SS15 Ivories collection exhibits an orchestra of overlapping and contrasting effects: flowing yet structured volumes, geometric and flowered prints and textile designs, sporty and couture materials and finishes such as the ones found in the heavy cotton jersey enhanced by feather applications.

The colours too create contrasting ensembles with neutral natural tints and whites meeting the trademark blues of the brand, and strawberry shades with brilliant greens exposing patches of orange pink.

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The collaboration of the creative duo, An Italian Theory + Azzurra Gronchi started back in April 2013 and has developed into a new accessories collection for this FW14-15 season. Accessories showing unusual shapes, clearly inspired by the geometrical figures of triangles, squares, rectangles and semicircles also make their way into the knitwear collection.

The An Italian Theory original pattern presents new elements and features prints of “gesticulating hands” in the form of “ok”, “hearts” and “fists”. An additional “animal-patchwork” puzzle showcases pieces of different animals and naturally goes on to assemble unexpectedly bizarre ones.

The use of recycled materials is new in the An Italian Theory accessories collection. Parts of unisex backpacks and female clutches show recycled metal plates of various shapes and sizes taken from old metal shutters discovered at Nicola Corsaro’s warehouse – a vintage repository in Bari – and are re-colored to combine with the FW14-15 color palette. An Italian Theory brings back forgotten materials and objects to a new and glamorous life.

If you wish to receive more information on An Italian Theory and Azzurra Gronchi, please contact us. If you are a buyer you can register for free by clicking on the button below and place your pre-order at no additional cost.

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Luca Larenza connects with his Italian heritage employing local craftsmen who through the application of traditional Italian techniques, create rich conceptual pieces for men with strong personalities. A lot of research is undertaken to produce high-quality products and maintain tradition, with important references to the likes of famous Italian painters like Caravaggio, Naples’ religious iconography and old cinema.

Launching his new project – bespoke, a service that offers exclusive tailor-made pieces – Luca Larenza also introduced a couture line last winter. The brand’s identity echos the designer’s personal experience as an avid traveler facing the world with great passion and audacity.

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Mohair² is ubiquitous. Simplicity is softened to create a general effect of peace and harmony. The gentleness of the mohair is also revealed through the poetic combination of colors in the macro bouclé.In this journey through knitwear Italy is playing a crucial role since almost the 80% of worlwide knitwear is produced in throughout several Italian regions: a geography that is split into various areas, which may be referred to as truly highly specialised districts. From luxury maisons, like Chanel to avant-garde designer like Rick Owens or Gareth Pugh, everybody is producing the most sophisticated knits in Italy. From a historical point of view, Lombardy and Piedmont have played a major role, Veneto is the region with a tradition of a medium-high knitwear product.

Umbria boasts high and widespread quality, also in its numbers, specialised in a traditional product and in cashmere (a prime example is the success of Brunello Cucinelli), whilst Carpi initially concentrated on a lower end and economical knitwear product, raising the quality level in the 1980s to keep up with the competition. The territory boasts numerous businesses covering various segments, including the lowest ones, produced in Prato and Signa in Tuscany, to arrive at the most basic ones produced in Barletta.
Running parallel with this growth of knitwear, a new generation of talents is arising and Italy is the country driving the development of this exciting new trend. To know more, look for our next post on rising Italian talents.

Author: Federico Poletti – Thanks to Maglifico, the Knit Journal.
Photo source: Pinterest #knitwear
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¹Malfilè: it’s an imperfect yarn that produces irregular effects.
²Mohair: it’s a luxury fiber made from the hair of Angora goats, a beautiful, incredibly warm and durable yarn.

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